It’s that wonderful time of year when snowflakes are falling here in the Mid-Atlantic and most people are taking their trips south in search of warmer weather, and I’ve been reminiscing about two years ago when I decided to go north instead. It was probably the craziest travel decision I have ever made, and with it being my first solo trip I guess it was a rookie move. But looking back, the outcome made it all the more memorable.
The cheap price of the flight from PHL to Boston was enough of a red flag and I knew that New England weather in February could be a gamble, but I booked it anyways. For some reason it was just calling to me. I tracked the weather in the weeks leading up to the trip and for the longest time the outlook was fine… Then the day before I went, Boston was hit with a massive nor’easter. And more snow was on the way for the second day I was there. I don’t mind snow. I’ve always loved it as long as I’m properly dressed for it. So it didn’t bother me that my trip was going to be a snowy one, and I certainly made the most of it. Here are a few of my favorite memories from that snowy adventure.
Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
On my first day, I dropped my bags at my hotel and headed across town to check out the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. If there’s one museum not to miss in Boston, this is it. The museum is modeled to resemble an “inside-out” Venetian palazzo, featuring an alluring indoor courtyard. The lush gardens were a nice reprieve from the wintry scene outside. Surrounding the courtyard are enchanting rooms containing a remarkable art collection. Even if you are not an art aficionado, you will enjoy the sheer aesthetic of this museum. On your visit you can also learn about the 1990 theft from the museum of 13 works from world-renowned artists – to this day the largest unsolved art theft in the world.
The Freedom Trail
Being a history lover, my primary goal for this trip was to walk the Freedom Trail in its entirety. This walking path throughout the city connects all of Boston’s key historic sites. Snowflakes were already falling as I began my journey at the visitor center at Boston Common, the start of the Freedom Trail. The city was already covered by a foot (or more) of snow that had fallen the day before I came, and although it prohibited me from fully venturing into some of the locations on the trail such as the Old Granary and King’s Chapel Burying Grounds, the snow made for some great photos.
Halfway through the Freedom Trail, Quincy Market at Faneuil Hall made a great stopping point to warm up and grab some lunch – I went for lobster bisque in a bread bowl from Boston Chowda Co. Not long after I left Faneuil Hall, the snow started to pick up. A stop in Old North Church provided more refuge and was one of my favorite spots on the trail.
By the time I was ready to cross the Charles River to get to the USS Constitution and Bunker Hill, I was in a full-blown snowstorm. And I walked the whole way – I know, I might actually be insane. Luckily, I was able to spend a good amount of time indulging in history – and thawing out – in the USS Constitution Museum and then the small Bunker Hill Museum. If I was crazy enough to do the whole Freedom Trail in a blizzard, of course I was crazy enough to walk all the way back to my hotel in it. I then had to hang all of my soaking wet clothes around my hotel room to dry!
Omni Parker House
The same day that I did the Freedom Trail in the snow, I smartly decided not to leave my hotel the rest of the night, which wasn’t disappointing at all because the hotel itself is a Boston gem. I stayed at the historic Omni Parker House, the hotel where Boston Cream Pie got its start and that regularly saw Charles Dickens as its guest. Once I was dry and warm, I dressed myself up a little and headed downstairs to Parker’s Bar. I ordered some clam chowder and a Sam Adams lager, and then the bartender brought me a complimentary Boston Cream Pie and another beer. The chowder warmed my soul and all I can say is their Boston Cream Pie is famous for a reason. When I decided it was time to return to my room, I was stunned by the amazing hospitality when the bartender refused to take my money for anything and simply told me “Enjoy your time in Boston.”
I had gotten a great rate on the hotel but had also been enticed to book it because of its ghost stories. The hotel is rumored to be haunted by its founder Harvey Parker, who is seen still walking the halls and checking in on guests. On the mezzanine level, there is a mirror that was in Charles Dickens’ room at the hotel that Dickens supposedly practiced his lines of A Christmas Carol in front of – and perhaps still might based on some of the activity guests and staff have witnessed around it. The hotel’s haunted history is fully embraced by the hotel staff – the bartender at Parker’s had a ghost story sheet at the ready when I asked about the ghosts. I didn’t experience anything myself during my stay there but many have!
Salem
My plan on my second full day had been to take a day trip up to Salem. I had wanted to visit some of the museums in Salem, but when I checked their websites in the morning, they were all closed because of the weather. I decided to go anyways, figuring I could still probably find enough to do. I hopped on the regional rail line from Boston’s North End and was in Salem in about a half hour. Within five minutes of walking down the main pedestrian thoroughfare Essex Street I encountered an eccentric local who noticed my wanderlust and gave me a personal walking tour of the entire town from the House of Seven Gables and the lighthouse on the waterfront down to the quaint McIntire Historic District. Town was beautiful with all of the snow, but it was all enhanced by the numerous ice sculptures scattered throughout from the annual Salem’s So Sweet Chocolate & Ice Sculpture Festival. Once I parted ways with my unexpected tour guide, I browsed a few New Age shops that were open and grabbed some tacos and cervezas at Howling Wolf Taqueria before heading to catch a train back to Boston. As it turns out I probably ended up having a better time in Salem than I would have if the museums had been open!
A trip to Boston is extremely affordable in the winter months and as long as you don’t absolutely hate snow, it can be well worth the gamble. I like to think that between the cold blizzards, warm chowder, and great hospitality I got the true New England experience!
C to Shining C 