6 Hours in Bruges

The quaint medieval town of Bruges came recommended to me by many as I was preparing for my trip to Belgium. Located an hour train ride outside of Brussels in the Flanders region of Belgium, Bruges was easy to make a day trip out of, and I also spent the morning in Ghent on the way out to Bruges.

Upon arrival in Bruges, I took a bus toward the center of town. My first stop was Sint-Salvatorskathedraal (St. Salvator’s Cathedral). This gothic 1300s cathedral is full of Flemish art and features stunning stained glass windows.

Next I wandered down the street to Markt (Market Square), the very heart of Bruges. The square features one of the most prominent landmarks of the city, the 83-meter (272-foot) tall Belfry of Bruges. The square also is home to the neo-Gothic Provinciaal Hof (Provincial Court) building and a row of stepped gable houses.

A few steps away is Burg Square, another of the city’s main public squares which is also lined with historic architecture, including the Stadhuis (City Hall) and Basiliek van het Heilig Bloed (Basilica of the Holy Blood), whose ornate chapel you can visit.

I next went to one of the most scenic spots in Bruges, Rozenhoedkaai (Rosary Quay). This corner offers charming canal views with the Belfry.

After wandering and taking in more Bruges architecture, as the sun began to set I paid a visit to Retsin’s Lucifernum, a truly unique, mysterious, and fascinating experience. The building is a former Masonic lodge which was bought by artist Willy Retsin, a self-proclaimed vampire. The exterior of the building is adorned with Edgar Allan Poe quotes. When I stepped into the vestibule, there wasn’t a soul in sight, but a small doorbell with instruction to ring. Everything was so eerie I had a small moment of hesitation ringing the doorbell – it felt like the beginning of a horror movie! A few minutes after ringing the doorbell, I was greeted by a Peruvian woman who according to internet sources is Retsin’s wife. I paid my fare which was to include a drink at the end of my tour, and she directed me on how best to tour the house. I wandered from room to room taking it all in. The place is a museum of sorts, full of gothic artwork that is the stuff of nightmares with demonic-looking figures. It’s accompanied by just as eerie of a collection of oddities, including mannequins, dolls, and antique furniture. I was the only one in the place for the majority of the time that I was there, making it even spookier.

At the conclusion of my walkthrough, I took my seat at the bar and was given a menu of Cuban and Latin-inspired cocktails. I chose a mojito, which the hostess whipped up with the freshest ingredients and a generous pour of rum. Would you believe me if I told you the best mojito I’ve ever had was in Bruges, Belgium? I was soon joined by some guests who had arrived towards the end of my tour, one of whom just so happened to be from the Philadelphia area also, even though she was now living in London. Later on some additional guests came in, as well as the brother of the artist, who was himself a character. We all had a great time chatting. Inspired by the drink choice of the other Philly girl, I ordered another drink: the pisco sour, a Peruvian cocktail of pisco, egg white, lime, and sugar. If there’s any one thing you have to do in Bruges, the Lucifernum is probably it. It was just one of those unique travel experiences that you can’t get anywhere else in the world.

After leaving the Lucifernum it was time to get some food to soak up those strong cocktails. I went back to Market Square for a delicious dinner of meatballs at the Hotel Central’s outdoor restaurant. I washed it down with a Stella Artois – I know, I drink Stella all the time in the U.S. but it definitely hit differently enjoying it with a view of the Markt in the heart of Bruges.

Before hopping on the train back to Brussels, I took another brief walk around town to snap some nighttime photos. Bruges showed its charm, equally if not more stunning at night.

In my wandering I stumbled upon a bar with a beer wall. I was done drinking for the night but was mesmerized by the display of bottles and glasses and stopped just to admire. If only I had more time in Bruges!

There was probably a lot more I could have done in Bruges, but I had a great time spending the afternoon there and Retsin’s Lucifernum was a truly memorable experience.