I couldn’t even be upset about the weather being misty and overcast while I was in Prague. It’s one of those cities that’s just as beautiful, if not more beautiful, in the rain as when the sun’s shining. With its Gothic spires, cobblestoned streets, hilltop castle, and statue-lined Charles Bridge, Prague is moody and magical. Full of great beer, intricate architecture, occult history, and quirky surprises around every corner, Prague was one of those cities that I instantly felt at home in. It was my kind of place.
Stay
My hotel in Prague was one of the parts I was most excited about, because I stayed in a historic brewery hotel, U Medvídků, which did not disappoint. My room was warm and rustic and came equipped with beer soap and shampoo. Continental breakfast served in the restaurant area was included with my stay, and I also enjoyed eating classic Czech cuisine in the restaurant one night, and having a few beers at the bar as well. The hotel’s location was great too – a few minutes’ walk from the heart of Prague and with easy access to public transit.
Getting Around
Prague was very easy to get around (and best enjoyed) on foot, but I did utilize the public transit a few times while I was there, mainly for getting back and forth to Praha hlavní nádraží (Prague main train station). I purchased a 72-hour transit pass for 330 Czech koruna (the equivalent of about $14.21 USD at my time of travel) and utilized the many tram lines that run through central Prague.
What to See and Do
Staré Město
Staré Město is Prague’s medieval “Old Town.” It’s the main tourist area of Prague that lies to the east of the Vltava River, and has Old Town Square at its heart. Old Town Square is lined with restaurants and is always full of tourist activity.
The Astronomical Clock
Just off Old Town Square you’ll see the Astronomical Clock on the side of the Old Town Hall. The clock dates back to 1410 and is the oldest astronomical clock still in operation. Whenever the clock strikes the hour, a skeleton representing death rings a bell as wooden statues of the 12 Apostles parade past the windows above the clock. It’s something to see!
Our Lady before Týn
When I think of Prague, the Church of Our Lady before Týn is one of the first images that comes to mind. The beautiful church with its Gothic spires has loomed over Old Town Square since its completion in 1511. The church is free to enter, and photography is not allowed inside so I don’t have any interior shots to share but take my word that it is just as gorgeous inside as out.
Jewish Quarter
The northwestern corner of Staré Město is the historical Jewish Quarter of Prague. Jews occupied this section of the city as early as 1096 as they weren’t allowed to live in other parts of Prague. While much of the Jewish town was demolished between 1893 and 1913 to model the city more like Paris, some Jewish relics still stand in this quarter of town. They survived Nazi occupation, as grimly the Nazis had even taken part in preserving many of them in hopes of turning the quarter into a museum once the Jews had been eradicated. Today with a ticket to the Jewish Museum, you can tour several synagogues and exhibitions, and the Old Jewish Cemetery. One of the most striking parts to me was the Pinkas Synagogue, the second oldest surviving synagogue in Prague, whose interior walls are inscribed with the names of 77,297 Czech Jewish victims of the Holocaust. Not only are the exhibitions a somber reminder of some of the darkest days in world history, they also foster education and understanding of the Jewish faith. My visit occurred just days after the Israeli-Hamas war broke out in October 2023, when the world saw a boost in anti-Semitic and Islamophobic sentiments. Much of that weighed heavily on my mind as I explored the Jewish history of Prague, thinking how I only wish that more people in this world would take the time to learn about and understand those that are different from them.
Speculum Alchemiae
One of the oldest buildings in Prague stands in the Jewish Quarter, and was for unknown reasons omitted from the town’s demolition plans. In 2002, after heavy floods spurred renovations under the building, tunnels were discovered that housed an underground alchemy laboratory, which had been established in the 16th century by Emperor Rudolf II and saw the work of many famous alchemists. The tunnels are now open via guided tour and show a glimpse into the mystical side of Prague.
Beer Spa
In the weeks leading up to my trip all anyone heard me talk about was how excited I was to visit Prague because I was going to do a beer spa, and the experience was definitely one of my highlights. I booked an hour session with the Original Beer Spa (they have a few different locations in Prague – I went to the one on Rybná street, just a few blocks off Old Town Square). The treatment involves hops and brewer’s yeast added into a warm bubbling oak bath tub, while you consume homemade beer bread and unlimited Czech Krušovice beer from a tap right on the side of your tub (NOT from the bath water!). My feet and legs had been so sore from all of my sightseeing before I went into the tub, and I came out with no pain at all, although that could have also been from the unlimited beer consumption! My skin was definitely soft and smooth post-bath as well. The question I was most-asked by friends was if you come out sticky or smelling like beer. The answer is not at all. I have heard of others coming out a little gooky green from the hops, but I didn’t experience this, and they add something fragrant to the bath as well so you come out smelling a more soothing scent, almost like lavender. It was heavenly!
Church of St. James the Greater
Another church with some interesting and morbid history lies just a few blocks behind Our Lady before Týn. The Church of St. James the Greater dates back to the 13th century, although its current Baroque appearance was a result of a rebuild after a fire in 1689. The interior of the church is beautiful. Pictures aren’t allowed inside, but I was intrigued by its pastel pink interior adorned with dark wood and gold cherub figures. Just inside the front door of the church on the right-hand side, if you look up, you see a mummified arm hanging from a hook. The story goes that this is the arm of a thief in the 16th or 17th century who attempted to take jewels from the statue of the Virgin Mary on the high altar. The statue reportedly grabbed the thief’s arm and would not let go. When he was found the next day by monks, they had to cut off his arm to free him, and his arm was hung in the church as a warning.
Another morbid story of the church is the burial of Count Vratislav of Mitrovice. After his entombment in the church, parishioners heard noises coming from the tomb, but merely thought that his soul had not found rest. It wasn’t until much later when the tomb was reopened as the church was being renovated that it was discovered the Count had been alive and gotten out of his coffin, only to be trapped in by the stone monument.
Charles Bridge
Connecting the Staré Město section of Prague with Malá Strana across the Vltava River is the famed Charles Bridge, lined with baroque statues of saints. The bridge itself is something to see, but walking it also offers some of the prettiest views of Prague, with Gothic towers on either end of the bridge adding to the “City of a Hundred Spires.”
Malá Strana
Upon crossing the Charles Bridge from Staré Město, you find yourself in the Malá Strana (Lesser Town) part of Prague. It’s notably hillier than Staré Město, with Prague Castle towering over the town from the top of a hill. This part of town is full of shops and restaurants and has a very quirky and artsy feel.
Prague Castle
Dating back to the 9th century, the historic Prague Castle complex remains to this day the seat of power for the area. It was once home to kings of Bohemia, but now houses the official offices of the President of the Czech Republic. There’s much to see throughout the Castle District, including the dominant St. Vitus Cathedral, the smaller church St. George’s Basilica, the Old Royal Palace, and Golden Lane, a row of 16th century houses originally built to house Rudolf II’s castle guards that are today home to souvenir shops and exhibitions displaying the homes of various tradespeople of the period. All of these sites are included on the most basic visitor ticket, but being the history nerd that I am, I added on a ticket that included some permanent exhibitions. I spent the better part of the day at Prague Castle exploring the grounds and learning about its history. It was truly amazing in the History of Prague Castle exhibition to see some of the artifacts recovered from this site. So hard to wrap my mind around how old some of these things were, and so well-preserved!
Being one of the highest points in Prague, the Castle District also offers some of the most incredible views. Even on a rainy misty day, it was stunning to look out over red rooftops as far as the eye could see.
Dripstone Wall
After I descended the hill from Prague Castle, I wandered a few minutes to find the Dripstone Wall, one of Prague’s hidden gems located on the grounds of the baroque Wallenstein Palace, now home of the Senate of the Czech Republic. Winding through serene geometric hedge-lined gardens, I came to the part known as “the Grotto,” which is surrounded by the Dripstone Wall, a wall covered in stalactite-like rock that you can almost make out eerie faces in if you look hard enough. As I walked along, I noticed a part that looked like an animal enclosure covered in the same stalactites, but couldn’t see any animals at first glance. There was a sign in Czech in front of the enclosure, but my Czech is limited and I didn’t stop to break out my translate app. As I approached the enclosure I looked up just as a creature perched high above turned its head and looked directly at me. It was a great horned owl, and I then noticed several more perched higher up sleeping. Being a fan of owls (seriously – I have owls all over my house), this moment brought the biggest smile to my face. Seeing the well-known historic sites like Prague Castle is much appreciated, but these are my favorite travel moments – the little unexpected things that you stumble upon along the way.
These are just a few of my favorite things that I saw and did while I was in Prague, but obviously I also had my share of fabulous food and beer while I was there. Those things deserve their own posts, so more on that to come, as well as my day trip an hour outside of Prague to visit the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutná Hora.
C to Shining C 